Electric Trike Helpful Videos

Hi, my name is Jason Kraft. I'm the CEO of Electric Bike Technologies in Pennsylvania and I want to give you some quick tips on safety around your lithium-ion batteries, whether for e-bikes or anything else, these safety tips apply.

We're going to run down a quick list. There's a PDF we're going to provide, probably share a link to that wherever we share this video, you'll be able to take that with you and study that.

Okay safety guidelines for lithium-ion batteries number one. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions, seems pretty simple but read that book no matter what you get, whether it's from Electric Bike Technologies or not. Make sure you're following that manual and all of those safety instructions around proper use, care, charging, and storage of your lithium-ion batteries.

Always plug into lithium-ion battery directly to a wall outlet. This one gets overlooked a lot. No stacking, no putting these into a strip, give it its own outlet, okay. That's the safe way to do it.

Don't use extension cords, don't use power strips. Always charge at room temperature. Lithium-ion batteries like to live the way you like to live, so those temperature are good if you're cold it's cold. Don't charge it if you're hot; it's hot. Don't charge it you want these basically at room temperature. You don't want to charge, a nice cold frozen battery and you don't want to charge a battery that's boiling already.

Always charge your battery in a well-ventilated area with a fire detection system. Okay, this is a battery safety thing. You want to make sure you're charging this somewhere where if gas does escape or something like that, that it's not going to cause a bigger problem.

Always monitor the battery when you're charging. This is kind of interesting for e-bikes because a lot of manufacturers, do recommend a balancing charge once in a while. If you have a battery with multiple cells but for the most part you want to be attentive.

You don't want to leave a battery charging unattended. You don't want to do it overnight while you're sleeping. Those are dangerous situations, you want to make sure that you're able to act if there is a problem.

Occasionally for those balancing recommendations you want to do an extended charge, that's fine but you want to pay attention, do not leave your lithium battery unattended while charging.

Do not stack or cluster lithium-ion batteries. So if you have a bunch of stuff, whether it's an e-bike battery or whether it's a smaller lithium-ion battery, you don't want to stack these things together. You create excessive heat the more you put them together, so don't do that. Let them have fresh air flow.

Do not use the battery or charger if it has been damaged. Okay, if it's been wet, if it's been punctured if it's been dropped. If you dumped your bike, do not do that. If something has been physically damaged, you want to stop, assess the situation. Get some professional help if you need it.

Don't charge that battery, if it's been dented or something like that. Never block your exit from the home while charging your lithium-ion battery. Again fire safety stuff, they want to make sure you can get out of the room if something goes wrong. So make sure you have an exit plan.

You never try to modify or service your e-bike or trike battery system. You don't want to do that you're not a professional. You didn't design these. Don't get in there messing around. That is one sure way to cause a problem. Get professional help, if you need to service your batteries. Don't try to do that yourself.

Never use a battery if it shows signs of physical damage. Again it's just so important that if you drop your battery or if you crack your charger or anything like that, you do not want to use those products. So, when you get them tested out, make sure they're good before you use them, or you want to replace them.

Never place lithium-ion batteries in the trash, recycling bin. This is very important this environmental aspect of all this. We're putting a lot of batteries out there, these large lithium-ion batteries you don't want to just throw these in the trash. You need to contact your local Waste Management Service company, or you can look online there are companies that specialize in the disposal of lithium-ion batteries.

We want to do that right. We have a great industry. It's a fun industry, electric bikes. We don't want to mess this up, we don't want to mess our planet up, we don't want to mess ourselves up. So do the right thing and dispose of your batteries properly.

I hope these tips are helpful, hope you find it useful. Again this is a general outline for battery safety when it comes to lithium-ion batteries, we all need to take care.

I hope this helps you have a good day.

Okay, we're here today with a Fat-Tad. What we're going to be doing is going over how to replace the front tire, front wheel for anyone that needs that done.

So, the first thing we're going to do is going to make this easy, so you don't bang up your rotor because we're just going to disconnect the whole entire caliper. There's two bolts here on the side those were going to what you're going to want to get at, you need a 5mm Allen wrench for these guys.

It helps when you're doing this if you can get the bike up in the air somehow, we just have a wooden stand underneath of it to prop up the front end but anything you can find to get the bike up in the air just to keep the wheels off the ground will work for you.

The bolts are out, you can take your caliper off and just set that off to the side. Now when I come around to the other side of the wheel, you have your little dust cover here this is going to be 8mm wrench. Once your dust covers off, you'll see inside here is a 5mm bolt. Okay, with that bolt removed you can slide your wheel off your axle. So, with your wheel off you can do whatever you need to do, change your tire or change your rotor.

Putting it back, we're just going to slide it back onto the axle. Make sure it's all the way in. We're going to put our 5mm bolt back inside, snug that down, push your tire still moves freely. So, we put on our dust cap. You should I give that a little snug and make sure it doesn't come off.

Now, after you’ve done all of that, we're going to put our caliper back on. Make sure you oriented the right way, slide it right over the rotor. Then just align up the bolt holes and then we're going to tighten these back down and these you just want to give them again, give them a good snug to make sure they're all the way down.

Give it a nice little snug. Come back to check the rear one again, okay everything is snugged up. Here you go, that's how you replace the wheel on a Fat-Tad.

We’re here today with the 24 inch Traditional and what we're going to be looking at is a couple of different options for PAS installations. In our case, what we have on here that we've done already is we have a right side with a 12-magnet split. So, we put that on so, we put that on in advance, when we removed the crank arms and everything out of here.

Once the crank arms are removed and the magnets are installed. We're going to want to find the center and parallel center of the bottom bracket cage. We're going to drill in tap, it's going to be 11/64 drill for a 5mm tap and we've installed on this bike, we have this one has built-in wire (cable) guides. So, that's what we use here, it's a lot nicer holds everything together neatly.

The alternate method, if you're going to do it would be the left side and you're still going to want your 12 split and that will just snap together on this side of the crank right here and then you pop your ring on. Alright, so for today, I’m just going to pull this off so I can show you how we're going to install the sensor.

This would be your left sensor; you can just cut this off if you don't want to use this has a piece of double-sided tape it can stick right here and then it also has the Velcro or zip tie guide and lets you adjust it a little bit. You don't really have to have this; it'd be a lot easier if you just cut it off and mounted it same way with your zip tie, right to there and it keeps it locked into place keeps it out of the way a little bit further because it recesses it away from your crank arm.

Just to show you once we have this magnet on our sensor, it would sit right back here and you're going to want to keep it pretty much parallel, so that it connects with the magnets.

I'm going to try not to do any crazy 45 degree angles or anything or get yourself too far away from the magnet, so that it doesn't have proper contact to read.

Those are going to be the two methods that you're going to want to go with, when you’re installing PAS, on a traditional.

Go to the connector on the fork, which is in the front. You're going to pull it straight out, with NO TWISTING. You're going to look down the throat of these cables and just make sure that the pins look great right everything looks straight nothing's burnt or anything and then you want to line up the arrows on it and you want to plug that directly back in.

Nine times out of ten that is going to solve an Error 24. It's likely that you know through turning or something else that this has become a little bit loose and pulled away just a little bit.

That's going to solve Error 24 on the Fat-Trike.

[ElectricTrike.com Theme Music]

Alright, we're going to be installing fenders on an Eco-Tad today. We've already made some steps ahead of time, we're going to show you here. So, for one we've moved our rack struts supports to the forward hole and you'll see that it opens this hole back here. You're going to need this hole for your fender. Up here, you're going to use a 4mm wrench. Sometimes it helps if you have a short one like this, to come in here, to get this bolt out. So, I've already loosened that something's going to pull my screw out. There slide the fender in and you're going to put your screw, through the fender, back into the hole that it was in and you can twist this almost all the way in by hand and then like I said you're going to want your little short wrench here to finish tightening that down.

Back here for our stays, we're just going to spread them out. You have your little Phillips head screws here, adjust your fender up to where you want it to be. Okay and then we'll do the same thing on the other side and that's our rear fender. Again you got, I didn't do it but you're going to want to make sure you finish tightening this all the way down but that is the way, that this fender of installs on the rear here. Now, we're going to move up to the front and we're going to install the front fender on this for you.

We're going to start here on the fork, remove your little rubber cap. Then we're going to need our 5mm wrench and pull that bolt and that cap all the way out and the top spacer and take all that set it off to the side. Loosen our handlebars. You should be able to you may have to cut your zip tie in our case, we are going to have to cut our zip tie, (something fell on the floor) oh we don't have to cut our zip tie. Now, once the handlebar is removed, you're going to have two spaces here. We're going to take the one spacer away.

So and also, we've already installed our brackets on here so this is how your fender should look. For if you're standing in front of the bike, like I am this is the right side of the bike, so for the right side of the fender, you want this up front and we want this out back okay. I'm going to slide our spacer on I'm just going to go all the way down so you're going to leave one spacer. You're going to use this as your second spacer and you are going to get rid of the second spacer that was there, to begin with, that came with the bike. Put our handlebar back on then we can put in our top spacer and our bolt can go back in and then we're going to want to come back to this a few minutes to finish tightening that stuff down.

The next part you're going to want to do, is you're going to want to take the steering linkage bar off so that will be a 13mm and a 5mm Allen wrench. Okay, you're going to drop the linkage completely down, remove the bolt. Then your arm is going to fit right underneath of it like that bolt goes through bring your steering linkage back up in there, reinstall your nut. Then you're going to have these all tightened down you're going to reposition this exactly where you want it make sure it's covering your tire completely.

Then you can give this tighten it back down to the proper tension that it should be. We can come back up to the front here. Position our handlebar back to where we want it and then we can go back to tightening snugging down, well first let's snug down the top. Then you can go back to tightening up the arm here, the handlebar and you're going to want to get these pretty snug you don't have to go super crazy but you do want them to be pretty snug this is your steering. Probably always go back and forth - as I'm doing and then we come back up here give it one last little check for snuggest.

Okay, so now you can give your fender any other adjustments that may need to make sure it's covering the wheel and give it one last little tight check that you want if you need to this bolt in the back here this nut, I'm sorry is going to be an 8mm in the back when you install these and you will need a 3mm Allen wrench. So, once you've got everything where you wanted it you give it your last little snugs down and that's how you install the fenders on an Eco-Tad.

Okay, we're here today with a Fat-Tad. What we're going to be doing is going over how to replace the front tire, front wheel for anyone that needs that done.

So, the first thing we're going to do is going to make this easy, so you don't bang up your rotor because we're just going to disconnect the whole entire caliper. There's two bolts here on the side those were going to what you're going to want to get at, you need a 5mm Allen wrench for these guys.

It helps when you're doing this if you can get the bike up in the air somehow. We just have a wooden stand underneath of it to prop up the front end but anything you can find to get the bike up in the air just to keep the wheels off the ground will work for you.

The bolts are out, you can take your caliper off and just set that off to the side. Now when I come around to the other side of the wheel, you have your little dust cover here this is going to be 8mm wrench. Once your dust covers off, you'll see inside here is a 5mm bolt. Okay, with that bolt removed you can slide your wheel off your axle. So, with your wheel off you can do whatever you need to do, change your tire or change your rotor.

Putting it back, we're just going to slide it back onto the axle. Make sure it's all the way in. We're going to put our 5mm bolt back inside, snug that down, push your tire still moves freely. So, we put on our dust cap. You should I give that a little snug and make sure it doesn't come off.

Now after you’ve done all of that, we're going to put our caliper back on. Make sure you oriented the right way, slide it right over the rotor. Then just align up the bolt holes and then we're going to tighten these back down and these you just want to give them again, give them a good snug to make sure they're all the way down.

Give it a nice little snug. Come back to check the rear one again, okay everything is snugged up. Here you go.

That's how you replace the wheel on a Fat-Tad.

Okay, we're here today with a Fat Trike for anybody that's going to be receiving them in the future, we now have fenders installed on these. 

We're going to show you how to put them on the bike when you get, they are delivered to you.

So, this is the way it's going to come like this your fender will be separate it will already be put together, all you have to do is set it right down in here. In your trunk bag, you'll have two bolts, place these through here. Now for my video for right now, I don't have the trunk installed here when you get the bike you will have the trunk installed and all you have to do is come right through here Or you can remove the basket if you want. I have it removed just for the video so you could get a clear view of what we're doing here but, in any case, all you're doing is putting the fender up and lining up your two bolts.

Then once you get them in place it's a five-millimeter Allen wrench. 

So, you're going to put them a little snug and then come in and give them a good crank.

You don't have to go crazy, but you do want to put them snug enough that they're not going to move.

When you're all done that's the way to look so just the two bolts and you're good to go.

Okay, we're here today with a Fat Trike for anybody that's going to be receiving them in the future, we now have fenders installed on these. 

We're going to show you how to put them on the bike when you get, they are delivered to you.

So, this is the way it's going to come like this your fender will be separate it will already be put together, all you have to do is set it right down in here. In your trunk bag, you'll have two bolts, place these through here. Now
for my video for right now, I don't have the trunk installed here when you get the bike you will have the trunk installed and all you have to do is come right through here

or you can remove the basket if you want. I have it removed just for the video so you could get a clear view of what we're doing here but, in any case, all you're doing is putting the fender up and lining up your two bolts.

Then once you get them in place it's a five-millimeter Allen wrench. 

So, you're going to put them a little snug and then come in and give them a good crank.

You don't have to go crazy, but you do want to put them snug enough that they're not going to move.

When you're all done that's the way to look so just the two bolts and you're good to go.